12 March 2012

Futuristic Chic - Folklore Chic


 I'm terribly sorry for last days' ups and downs, but my life is a mess right now and I'm trying my best to keep posting as often as I can... So, today you are going to read the two last posts on Paris Fashion Week.
   On Tuesday 6th March shows started with the Queen of French Fashion, Chanel.
Karl Lagerfeld, after last fall's Interwar collection, turned to novelty this time with the highlight being the Czech Cubism-like polyhedron sleeves, inspired from the exhibition in Prague. However, they could also be inspired by the polyhedron shape of the crystals he used for the show and which have been another inspiration for him as "Nature's the greatest designer", as he stated. In addition, the tweed three-piece suits (trousers-skirt-jacket) he redesigned for this fall were as innovative and fresh as the Lesage magnificent sparkling eyebrows. As for the colours, they remained dark, despite the few unsuccessful coloured outfits.
   And while Lagerfeld was bringing Chanel to Today, Sarah Burton was working on a futuristic collection for Alexander McQueen, just to prove that Future can be beautiful. Thus, she combined totally feminine/ sweet decorated jacquard, lace, fur or large pompom dresses with sci-fi visors, continuing with grace the innovative tradition of the House. Kanye West has also been gazing the future with his first attempt to enter the fashion world and he has done well with his slim silhouettes in mostly black leather outfits, like 21st century catwomans with motorbike boots. However, he has done also well with the more feminine side of the collection, as shown by the initial salmon cape-dress.
   Alongside the futuristic inspired collections, there were others invoking the past, like Hakaans collection with the '80s references' lamés, Paco Rabanne's reinvented metal dress of Brigitte Bardot and Paul & Joe's english countryside inspired collection. Nonetheless, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac's "Fire on Ice" collection with references on Iceland stood out from the crowd with the eye-catching yellow-black eagle prints and eagle heads on the shoulders.
   The real treat of the day though was Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli's collection for Valentino. Folklore costumes cooperated with haute couture aesthetic and the result was a très très chic and austere collection of crafted feminine above-the-ankle-hemmed dresses and coats, fresh leather high-waist coats and jumpsuits and multicoloured folklore textiles.


Jean-Charles de Castelbajac




Paco Rabanne

Paul & Joe

Alexander McQueen

Kanye West

Moncler Gamme Rouge

Photos: Style.com

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