07 March 2012

A polyethnic nine-course dinner...

Vivienne Westwood

    Saturday has been the most anticipated day of Paris Fashion Week, not only for me but for every "Techno Couture" fan, since the day's schedule included Junya Watanabe for a starter and  Comme des Garçons for desert.
    For starter we had Kani to Kyuri no Sunomono with Junya reserving for us an interpretation of men's garderobe with masculine suits, pinstripes, Prince of Whales checks, trenchcoat-capes and of course Oxford shoes, the ingenuity of which gained the audience from the moment that the bright colour-dyed haired models entered the runway. And for desert there was Mochi by another japanese label, Comme des Garçons. Rei Kawakubo chose this time to be limited to two dimensions, producing this season's most intelligent collection. And even though her intelligence came from a condemnation of today's fashion industry, with banal patterns and fabrics, like florals, polka dots and sequins on eveningwear, it didn't stop the crowd from getting enthousiastic.
   As for the main course, it remained polyethnic with Beef Wellington being the highlight. Who else could of course be more British than Dame Viv, whose "England" collection explored the english culture from seventeenth century style to classic tweeds and pure english punk details. Indeed, the atmosphere was so english with the british flag printed tights under jewel-embellished corsets or classic checked tweed jackets.
   However, the dinner included and the necessary french cuisine touches, since it was located in Paris. The best one was the starter, a french onion soup by Haider Ackermann, who wrapped the waists into large, molded, fine worked leather belts and alongside with peplumed jackets and pencil skirts he managed to create flirtatious hourglass figures.
   Unfortunately, the main course was not a Boeuf Bourguignon, but we contented ourselves with something less. The Ratatouille of the Japanese chefs Ling Liu and Dawei Sun was my favourite french main course. The designer-duo chose to concentrate on the Twenties for their second season at Cacharel,  with cloches, tapered trousers, white tights and a lot of zigzag prints.
Viktor & Rolf's Coq au Vin was also a well executed recipe with extremely bold, breathtaking sheer dresses of black tulle, decorated with emboidered flowers or fur and pieces of fabric covering the flashpoints. Alongside the almost-nude style, there were also masculine suits and eye-catching sculptured-shaved furs, paving the way for the profiteroles.
   The profiteroles of Jean Paul Gaultier wasn't meant to give the dinner a strong french finishing touch, as the several different elements -masculine suits, graffiti-prints, lace jumpsuits and trenchcoats turned into skirts- made it seem rootless. At the very least, the multi-coloured furs would be the only positive element of the collection.

Junya Watanabe

Haider Ackermann

Tsumori Chisato

Martin Grant

Viktor & Rolf


Véronique Leroy

Vivienne Westwood

Comme des Garçons

Comme des Garçons 
Jean Paul Gaultier


Photos: Style.com

1 comment:

  1. The dark lips and the lilac hair is amazing! *-*
    Great inspiration; thanks for sharing dear! :)